The Castelão grape is a natural cross between Cayetana Blanca and Alfrocheiro, already described in documents dating back to 1531.
According to the "Anuário Vinhos e Aguardentes de Portugal 2020/2021" prepared by the Instituto da Vinha e do Vinho (IVV), the grape variety designated as Castelão aka João de Santarém aka Periquita, occupies 9,952 hectares in Portugal, corresponding to 5% of the total number of grape varieties planted.
Castelāo is currently the most planted red grape variety in the regions of the Setubal Peninsula (where it has an overwhelming weight of 41%) and Lisbon (where it represents 24% of the vine population). It is also the second most planted grape variety in the Algarve and in the Tejo region, and also has a significant portion in the Alentejo, occupying the sixth position in the total number of grape varieties.
Castelão is a natural cross between Cayetana Blanca and Alfrocheiro, already described in documents dating back to 1531 that mention it in lands near Lamego, to the north in the Douro neighborhood. It became very popular after the enormous commercial success had by the producer José Maria da Fonseca with the Castelão wine planted in his vineyard called Cova da Periquita. The good quality of this wine led the grape variety to become associated with the name of the vineyard, and the wine and grape variety are now referred to under the name Periquita, one of the most common synonyms for the variety, which together with João Santarém are officially recognized synonyms by the Instituto da Vinha e do Vinho (IVV). In the Beiras region it is called "Trincadeira" (even though it has nothing to do with the actual Trincadeira aka Tinta Amarela grape).
The incredible adaptability of this graoe has led it to be planted everywhere, from the cooler, wetter regions in the North of the country to the sunnier, hotter regions in the South. Its high productivity, resistance to disease, being resistant to scalding and a thick skin which protects it from the rain, were other obvious reasons for its popularity. It can maintain acidity in hot conditions, which is certainly a huge advantage in today's ever changing and warming climate.
"Castelão was once the most planted red grape variety in Portugal. Its incredible adaptability led it to be planted all over the country. Its high productivity and resistance to disease also made it very popular.
It has some favorite soils. The deep sandy soils of Pegões (Setubal Peninsula), the pliocene sandy soils of the Charneca sub-region on the Tagus, and the clay-limestone soils of the Lisbon region. In general, in sandy soils it reaches 13%-14% alcohol content and produces wines rich in color, quite fleshy. The behavior is very different in clay-calcareous soils, where it produces wines with lower alcohol content, less color and higher acidity.
Its versatility in the winery is another praised attribute. For red wines it can produce lighter, easy-drinking versions when young. It can also develop greater concentration and firm structure, intense acidity, and tannins, which in the best examples can age for decades, especially from old vines with low productivity.
Those who know say that it is from the sandy soils that the longest-lived wines come from. Some winemakers vinify the grape in wine presses with foot treading and long macerations, such as in stainless steel or in Algerian amphoraes. Others prefer to use ripe stems to give more structure and complexity. And it also performs very well with French oak barrels or larger wooden casks. Some people like to use new wood in the first phase of aging followed by used oak in a second phase. In other words, flexibility is a key feature.
"Versatility in the winery is a much praised attribute. From light reds to fuller bodied and longer-lived wines, it is capable of producing all types of wine, whether sparkling or reds whites, rosés and even fortified wines."
Besides red wines, it is capable of producing other types of wine, whether sparkling or white red wines, rosés and even fortified wines.
But, what does Castelão taste like?
Castelāo wines are usually marked by fruitiness (gooseberry and berries) and wild plants, with the evolution there are notes of jam or plum in syrup and, in some cases, tobacco and dried meat.
Depending on the style, it can be paired with a wide variety of dishes such as spaghetti with mussels, fresh sausages wrapped in savoy cabbage, fried fish escabeche or a mixed barbecue with summer sauces. Vegetarian dishes like frittata of vegetables and mozzarella are a fantastic match.
The more robust and complex versions can tackle dishes with stronger and deeper flavors, like stuffed turkey, meatloaf with cream and/or mushroom sauce, or even grilled beef steak with chimichurri sauce and peperonata.
Na próxima semana partilharemos alguns dos vinhos Castelāo recomendados por Manuel Moreira, e mais combinações inusitadas. Fiquem atentos!
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