The oldest references to Alvarinho date from the late 18th century when its quality was already recognized, but much less relevant to the red wines of the time.
Its origin is still uncertain. Whether it is Portuguese or Spanish, it has not been confirmed (yet). Genetically it is very likely to be indigenous to the Minho Valley, in Portugal.
It was once covered up and subjugated to the reds, then unpopular but noble, today a poster-child.
At the beginning of the 20th century, the reds in Monção and Melgaço were still in the spotlight. Nobody was interested in white grape varieties, and bottled or branded wine was rare and luxurious.
That being said, Alvarinho was starting to make a name in the region famous. The berry is small, has many seeds, a thick skin and little juice. It produced small quantities of wine and therefore, it was expensive. Drinking Alvarinho became a luxury that only the well-to-do families could afford. It was a special wine for special occasions.
And then, little by little, an interest in that little grape variety continued. In the 1920's, a few pioneer brands with "Alvarinho" on the label were born, among them "Casa de Rodas" and "Cêpa Velha".
Its alcohol content, around 13.5%, set it apart from other local grapes. Even until the 1960's, Alvarinho was kept a secret of high status among the nobility in northern Portugal.
In 1964, infatuated by Alvarinho and full of courage, Mrs. Herminia País, one of the most illustrious figures of Monção and heiress of the Palace of Brejoeira, decided in 1964 to plant the first continuous vineyard of Alvarinho. In 1976, the first "Palácio da Brejoeira Alvarinho" becomes a commercial success, one of the most coveted and expensive wines in Portugal.
That, as usual, incentivized other producers to cultivate and bottle Alvarinho with their own brands. Soalheiro in 1982 (the first in Melgaço), Portal do Fidalgo (Provam) in 1994, and Anselmo Mendes in 1998.
In the last 30 years as Alvarinho has been gaining more prestige, it has been the source of experimentation and trials, and thanks to the creativity of many winemakers, new expressions of the grape variety have been revealed.
Stainless steel, oak barrels, foudre, cement, on lees, with maceration, as sparkling wine, brandy, pét-nat or even late-havest, the flexibility of Alvarinho seems endless. Also, a better understanding of the different terroirs, has led to vinifications according to the soil, altitude, greater or lesser slope, etc.
It has the capacity to produce wines with good alcohol content (11.5% to 13.5%) with high and firm acidity. Aromatically it is also very charming; tangerine, orange and grapefruit, some tropical notes, as well as green apple and peach, orange blossom, linden (Tilia) and acacias. Flint and some graphite can appear in the less exuberant versions of Alvarinho, an increasingly frequent profile. Hazelnut, walnut and honey would appear when fermented in wood. The profile is almost always complex, harmonious, full-bodied, persistent and full of freshness.
And to top this off, the best Alvarinho wines show remarkable aging capacity. It is not uncommon to find wines with two decades in excellent shape.
The justified virtues of Alvarinho has taken to virtually all the regions in Portugal. In a blend, it lends its perfume and freshness. On its own, it brings out the nuances that each location provides, while still showing its personality. It is currently one of the 5 most planted white grape varieties in Portugal. However, it is still in Monção and Melgaço where its personality is more distinctive.
With its exceptional quality, Alvarinho has already won over the most discerning wine connoisseurs globally, and yet there is still much to discover. Embark on a journey through Portugal and unlock the variety of Alvarinho treasures that are waiting to be enjoyed. Cheers!
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